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American Winemakers Face Challenges from Tariffs on Essential Imports



A worker pushes a wine barrel into a storage facility at Hunnicutt winery.

A worker pushes a wine barrel into a storage facility at Hunnicutt winery in St. Helena, Calif., on Sept. 30, 2021.
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Justin Sullivan/Getty Images

While traditional economic theory suggests tariffs are designed to bolster domestic industry by giving local producers a competitive edge, the reality for U.S. winemakers appears more complex. Despite President Trump’s tariffs targeting European imports, including wine, the American wine industry isn’t celebrating.

Adolfo Hernandez of Monroy Wines in Sonoma County expresses a sentiment that is echoed across the U.S. wine landscape: “To me, it’s awful. There’s no upside.”

How Tariffs Impact Wine Production

A significant concern for winemakers is the rising cost of essential supplies, many of which are imported. Glass bottles, corks, and barrels—all crucial to wine production—are among these items.

Cork, primarily sourced from Portugal and Spain, faces potential cost increases due to tariffs. Although alternatives like aluminum screw tops exist, they too could be impacted by tariff-related price hikes.

French oak barrels, revered for their unique influence on wine flavor, are also at risk. Adolfo Hernandez noted that without these barrels, “the flavor profile of many wines” would be altered. The tariffs could render these barrels prohibitively expensive for small producers.

Glass bottles, many of which are imported from China, are now subject to a 145% tariff, adding further strain. Ken Freeman from Freeman Vineyard & Winery highlights the issue, stating, “Our costs are gonna go up.”

At Madson Wines, barrels, bottles, and corks previously accounted for about 30% of total costs. Founder Cole Thomas fears that rising costs will force price hikes, which could alienate consumers.

Pricing Challenges in a Competitive Market

In theory, domestic wineries could raise prices as European wines become more expensive. However, this strategy risks driving consumers toward alternative beverages like beer, cider, or even abstaining from alcohol altogether.

Wine consumption has been declining, especially among younger Americans, a trend that could be exacerbated if domestic wine prices rise significantly.

Jordan Harris of Heron Hill Winery warns that excessive price increases could lead to a loss of market share: “There does come a point where you price yourself out of the market.”

The Role of Distributors

Distributors play a crucial role in the wine industry, enabling producers to reach a broad audience. However, many distributors also import European wines, and tariffs could strain their operations.

The complexity of the U.S. alcohol distribution system, rooted in post-Prohibition regulations, means that many wineries rely on these middlemen to sell across state lines.

Even with the possibility of increasing domestic wine distribution, the transition is daunting. Billy Weiss of North Berkeley Imports notes, “We need 50 to 60 domestic producers to help make up the loss for what’s going on with the European turf.”

Uncertainty Looms Over the Industry

Amidst these challenges, the future remains uncertain for American winemakers. The Wine Institute cautions that “tariffs will only hurt the broader wine sector including farmers, vintners, distributors, retailers, and the millions of people working across the extended wine supply chain.”

Canada, the U.K., and China have been significant importers of American wine, but ongoing trade tensions, including a 125% tariff by China, complicate the picture.

Economist Karl Storchmann suggests that a domestic wine surplus could lead to stagnant prices, which might benefit consumers but not producers.

As the industry grapples with these dynamics, decisions remain fraught with risk, with industry leaders like Kate Laughlin of Martine’s Wines noting that “each decision right now still feels like a bit of a high-stakes gamble.”