Surfers Welcome Back Crowds as Pacific Coast Highway Reopens
In the early hours at Malibu’s Surfrider Beach, surfers often anticipate catching the iconic right-hand point break. However, on this cloudy summer morning, the scene is surprisingly quiet, with only a few dozen surfers waiting for the waves.
“This is like having it empty,” remarks Maria Shen, a surfer, noting the sparse turnout. “We can, on a day that’s a little bit bigger than this, have a hundred people trying to get the same wave.”

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The Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), a vital artery for Malibu, was closed to the public after the devastating Palisades Fire in January, limiting access to residents, emergency personnel, and construction workers. This closure unintentionally cut off the beach community, although it facilitated the cleanup process.
As Memorial Day weekend approaches, the highway is reopening, a decision that brings joy to residents like surfer Milton Willis: “Hallelujah, Memorial Day weekend and they opened up the road!” After living in Malibu for five years, Willis is optimistic about the area’s recovery from the fire, which claimed 12 lives and devastated over 23,000 acres.

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The reconstruction efforts are evident with over 60% of the lots cleared of debris by the Army Corps of Engineers. Despite the progress, remnants of the devastation—such as twisted metal, rusted vehicles, and charred palm trees—are still visible along PCH. The road itself bears the wear from heavy construction traffic.
Cyclist Alec Radtke, eager to return to his old route, was among the first to traverse the newly accessible stretch. “Definitely spooky,” he describes. The ride offered him unobstructed ocean views, previously hidden behind buildings.
“It was super bizarre,” Radtke reflects on the ride. “It was a little bit dusty; obviously a lot of heavy trucks. It looks like a lot of the structures have been sort of cleaned out but there’s a lot of free-standing walls and empty debris, and that was definitely an emotional section of the ride.”

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Stephen McNelis, overseeing the Malibu Country Mart, describes the area as “kind of a ghost town” in recent months. The reopening of PCH brings hope for a bustling summer season. “We persevered and got through it,” McNelis says, acknowledging the challenges faced by businesses due to the fires and road closure.
However, not everyone shares the optimism. Frank Milliren, working at a luxury shoe store, voices concerns about the future. “The fires took a tremendous toll on the business,” he explains, worried that tourists might not have the community’s welfare in mind.
Emma Carroll, a lifelong Malibu resident and supervisor at Malibu Village Books, recounts the financial struggles faced by the store. “It has been so, so difficult for all of us in this shopping center,” she shares, expressing hope for increased foot traffic and a rebound in business.
As Memorial Day weekend arrives, Carroll remains “very, very hopeful” for a positive turn. “It’s Memorial Day weekend,” she chuckles. “Anything could happen.”
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This article was originally written by www.npr.org